Tenzing’s Daring Descent Down ‘Heaven’s Gate’

Heading towards Pisang in the rugged heart of Manang, Paungda Danda looms into view, its sheer face rising like a guardian of the sky. Recognised as Swargadwari, the ‘Heaven’s Gate,’ by the locals, its awe-inspiring presence is etched in the memory of all who behold it.

Rising to a height of 1,700 metres above the meandering Marshyangdi River, this impressive rock formation evokes admiration and respect. The ascent of Paungda Danda demands a pause, a breath, and a moment to honour the sheer power of nature before you.

Nepal’s freeride mountain biker Tenzing Gurung — Freerider Tenzing Gurung achieves his lifelong dream of cycling down the Swargadwari slab on June 25. *Photo: Nischaya Shrestha*

For years, many adventurers have fantasised about conquering the rock slab on two wheels, but no one has dared to attempt it—until last month.

On Tuesday, June 25, Nepali freerider Tenzing Gurung accomplished this remarkable feat. “Riding Swargadwari was a dream come true,” he said, expressing his joy during an interview with 8850media following his return from Manang last week.

“I wheeled down after climbing about 90 per cent of the cliff’s height. The final section was simply impossible to navigate!”

Swargadwari Sat image — 8850media traces Tenzing Gurung’s path on the treacherous slopes of Swargadwari using Google Maps.

In a video that has gained rapid admiration and awe, Tenzing can be seen descending down the slippery slopes. “It was about pushing boundaries and exploring the unknown. I hope this inspires others to seek out their own adventures and conquer the mountains in their lives,” the 32-year-old rider said.

His remarkable journey from a young cyclist in Nepal to an accomplished mountain biker is one of sheer determination and passion. Born in Kathmandu and brought up in the remote Makalu village of Sankhuwasabha district in eastern Nepal, Tenzing’s early years were shaped by the trials of the civil war in the late 1990s. His family moved to Kathmandu in search of brighter prospects. He did not just find a new home there, but also a newfound passion for cycling that would define his journey.

His father, Thagendra Gurung, one of the first professional Nepali mountain bike guides, has been his inspiration. Tenzing started cycling at 14 and quickly followed in his father’s footsteps.

“While descending Swargadwari, I aimed to highlight the beauty of Nepal’s landscapes and unexplored terrain.”

In 2006, a trip with his father to Tilicho Lake and the Mesokanto-La pass in Manang deepened Tenzing’s love for exploration and adventure. While cycling around the Upper Manang area at the time, he first noticed the western face of the famous monolith.

“I made up my mind at that moment that someday I would come back to conquer it and ride down the slopes on my bike,” Tenzing said. He kept cycling in the high mountains, always eager to push his boundaries.

Allure of Uncharted Trails

Then, in 2010, a chance meeting with Canadian freeriding legend Darren Berrecloth further inspired him to combine his passion with calculated risks.

He showed promise in racing, with impressive skills and a strong drive to compete. However, as the veteran freerider from Vancouver once said, Tenzing found the allure of uncharted trails and the chance to express his creativity as a freerider “irresistible.”

Berrecloth was on a trip to the Upper Mustang region with other noted freeriders: American Cameron Zink and Canadians Garret Buehler and Kurt Sorge. They were there to shoot a segment for the film ‘Where the Trail Ends.’

Tenzing G 5 scaled — Swargadwari has some of the steepest terrains that test the mettle of any adventure seeker. *Photo: Nischaya Shrestha*

The film, produced by Freeride Entertainment and Red Bull, was released in 2012. It documents the expedition of the world’s leading freeride mountain bikers as they venture into uncharted territory across the world. Its primary goal is to establish a path for the future of big-mountain freeriding.

However, Tenzing did not have a bike capable of handling such demanding terrain at the time. He said, “Nowadays, with advanced technology, we have bikes that boost our confidence and allow us to push the limits. And I thought, ‘Why not give it a shot?’”

In 2019, he attempted Swargadwari for the first time. However, it did not pan out well; he fractured his elbow in the process. Despite the injury, “I was able to traverse the rock slab and experience the terrain and atmosphere,” he said.

“I am a big fan of rock climbing and have been inspired by the individuals who set new routes and challenged themselves on impressive faces around the world.”

Ultimate Success

The fear and excitement of that moment were palpable, but it took two more bold attempts before he ultimately succeeded on his fourth try.

As a cycling tour guide, Tenzing frequently rides in Europe and promotes Nepal’s unique terrain through videos. Known for pushing the limits on two wheels, he regularly shares videos on Instagram and Facebook, showcasing hidden treasures in the high Himalayas and inspiring others with his daring adventures.

After a recent collaboration with Australian filmmaker Ty Bowmaker on a freeride project in Mustang, Tenzing planned a new endeavour: shooting the longest freeride film ever produced in Nepal.

“I am a big fan of rock climbing and have been inspired by the individuals who set new routes and challenged themselves on impressive faces around the world,” he explained.

“So, I set out to find demanding rock slab routes to ride them in a continuous line and test the limits of what was possible on the bike. The remote Swargadwari provided some of the steepest terrain I have ever ridden, as well as an incredible backdrop for the film.”

He shared the plan with content producer Nischaya Shrestha and seasoned trekking guide Jit Tamang. Before long, the three set out for Manang. After offering their prayers, they began trekking up the exposed and treacherous slopes on June 24.

The ruggedness of the terrain, altitude, and vast expanses of untouched nature create a sense of being on the edge of the world. Photos: Nischaya Shrestha

Shrestha, who has worked with Tenzing for four years, admits that he has never experienced such a hostile environment. “It was scary, especially on the first day when we could only reach the halfway point. I had to use all my limbs to climb up the near-vertical cliff,” he said, laughing.

To get there, the mountain biker and his friends had to walk for hours, bike and bags on their backs. The rain overnight only made the situation worse.

Growing Anxious

Tenzing and his mates embarked on an epic trek up the near-vertical slopes to reach their destination. Photo: Nischaya Shrestha

Before they were set to begin the next day, they anxiously checked the weather app. After much discussion, Tenzing made the call and decided to hit the slopes.

The panoramic views of the Himalayas are awe-inspiring, but it’s hard to focus on the scenery when your eyes are glued to his high-stakes descent, where every turn could potentially end in disaster.

Standing at the top of Swargadwari was a mix of fear and excitement. “It’s a place that commands respect. One wrong move and it could all be over,” he said.

Preparation and extensive training are crucial for tackling Nepal’s high elevations and exposed terrain. Tenzing, who lives in Machhendgaun on the western outskirts of Kathmandu, exemplifies this dedication through his rigorous training routine. He often carries his bike up the nearby Chandragiri Hills. This helps him build physical endurance and prepares him mentally for the demanding climbs and rugged trails.

Tenzing has tackled numerous challenging descents, including the Tilicho landslide section above Khangsar Village. In another video clip, he is seen gracefully manoeuvring down the dune-like slopes of scree and passing cliffs eroded over centuries.

However, he regards the descent down Swargadwari as distinct. According to him, it was a wild and unyielding force, with centuries-old glacial polish making the surface almost mercilessly slippery.

The first few metres were crucial. Tenzing propelled himself forward, delicately balancing his bike’s tyres on the rock surface. The sound of the wind deafened him, a constant reminder of the speed and danger. Every rock, crevice, and twist required split-second decisions. His expertise as a trail builder, where precision and intuition are vital, served him well.

Every crevice and twist in the rock demands agility, precision, and intuition to navigate the challenging terrain successfully. Photo: Nischaya Shrestha

Struggle for Balance

Halfway down, it became steeper, intensifying the ride from a controlled descent into a wild dance with gravity.

“My forearms burned from constant braking, and my legs strained to navigate the treacherous terrain,” he said. But his mind remained sharp, focused solely on the path ahead. Each successful manoeuvre brought a rush of adrenaline, reinforcing why he and others like him pursued such extreme challenges.

The descent was marked by moments that teetered on the edge of disaster. Every inch downward required a struggle for balance, a test of precision and courage.

Shrestha was constantly monitoring the rider on the screen of the drone’s remote control unit. “Watching Tenzing navigate those slopes was like witnessing a master artist at work,” he says, recalling the scenes of the rider’s manoeuvres on the monolith.

The 22-year-old content producer pointed out that the Commencal Meta SX, which Tenzing had been using for two years, appeared to be an extension of his body, smoothly gliding over the unforgiving rock. “He was in complete harmony with his bike and the mountain, even when things didn’t go as planned.”

Suddenly, Tenzing’s front tyres hit a hidden patch of slippery rock, sending him skidding uncontrollably. Time seemed to slow as his bike slid sideways, the edges of the trail blurring. But years of experience kicked in—Tenzing instinctively shifted his weight, bringing his bike back into alignment. Heart pounding, he regained control, the near-miss a stark reminder of the perilous beauty of Swargadwari.

“That was the scariest moment,” Tenzing said. “I thought I might not make it, but something inside me just clicked. You have to trust your instincts.”

Tenzing fights for grip as he carefully descends the slippery rock formation. Photo: Nischaya Shrestha

Frantic Sprint

The final stretch was a flurry of movement, a frantic sprint to the base of the cliff. When he finally crossed the ‘finish line’, there was a huge sense of relief. He dismounted, his muscles trembling, and glanced back at the towering rock, a triumphant smile illuminating his face.

Congratulatory messages, both from riders and other audiences, poured in from all corners of the world. For fellow riders, the camaraderie was evident, as they all faced the same challenges and risks, and now celebrated the same victory.

Wilson Low, a Singaporean enduro rider and race consultant, reacted to the video clip on his WhatsApp comment by saying, “This is really nuts!”

“Remember we always wondered if anyone would ever be able to ride that slab down,” added the PMBI Level 3 instructor. Low has visited Nepal nine times and has frequently travelled to the upper reaches of Manang and Mustang districts, both to compete in and organise mountain bike races.

“Tenzing’s feat could make MacAskill and Kilian proud,” Low commented, referring to Scotsman Danny MacAskill and Frenchman Kilian Bron, two renowned mountain bikers who share the values of pushing boundaries, conquering challenges and inspiring others through their riding.

Tenzing stayed humble when accepting compliments, saying, “While descending Swargadwari, I aimed to highlight the beauty of Nepal’s landscapes and unexplored terrain.

“We were all aware of the challenges ahead. It’s not just about the descent; it’s about the journey, the connections we forge, and the memories we make.”